actor Jason Momofamous for his role in animated films Aquamanrecently spoke frankly about the horrible experience he had while surfing in Hawaii. Recent interview No cleverness (See the full interview below), the towering star tells a painful event that almost leads to tragedy, even experienced sailors reminding people of the unpredictable power of the ocean.
According to MOMOA, the incident occurred a few years ago an undisclosed surf interruption known for its powerful wave. He described the day as initially promising, favorable conditions that attracted many surfers to the area. However, the temperament of the ocean changed quickly.
“The waves are starting to get bigger and bigger, and become more unstable,” Momoa explained. “There is a strong trend, and before I know it, I'm caught in a bad place. A lot of scenes pass, and I'm wiped out.”
Therefore, Momoa found himself falling under the water of running water, struggling with a huge wave. He lost his way, breathless, and tried hard to reach the surface. However, another wave fell on him, pushing him underwater.
“It feels like I'm overwhelmed,” he said. “I remember thinking, 'That's it. That's how it ends.'”
Then, after feeling like eternity, Momoa manages to release her freedom and gasp. But the ordeal is far from over. The unremitting waves continued to slam him, and the strong current threatened to bring him to the sea.
Fortunately, nearby surfers recognized the danger and were quickly helped. They fought against the turbulent conditions to reach MOMOA and ultimately helped him on the shore, exhausted and shaky.
“I’m very grateful to those guys,” Momoa said. “They risked their own safety to help me. Without them, I don't know if I would.”
After nearly in trouble, Momoa admits that the experience has had a lasting impact on him. While it didn't stop his love for surfing and the ocean, it was even more respectful to his power and unpredictability.
“It was a wake-up call,” he reflected. “The ocean is an incredible force that you can never take for granted.
Since the incident, MOMOA has become a strong advocate of marine security. He often talks about understanding the state of the ocean, understanding one’s limitations, and the importance of finding a companion surfer.
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